With high demand for vehicle bookings on ferries to the Outer Hebrides, it makes sense to travel as a foot passenger and use scheduled bus services to get around the islands.
Foot passengers from Ullapool are currently experiencing delays in disembarking at Stornoway (see news article under ferries) so may have to revise their plans for onward travel by bus. Unfortunately, there was a staff shortage at the bus station at the time when most bus passengers would be arriving off the ferry, resulting in the waiting room being closed and no staff member to answer queries. However, the council’s bus timetables are on display and available on line. Caution – these are quite complex and require careful study to avoid any mistakes such as turning up at the right time on the wrong day or vice versa.
Lewis and Harris are one island, and the main spine route W10 (shown above) runs regularly between Stornoway and Tarbert, where there is also a ferry terminal for passengers and vehicles travelling to Uig on the Isle of Skye, which has Citylink coach connections to Inverness, Glasgow and Edinburgh.
The bus size drops from midicoach to minibus for the southern section of the W10 between Tarbert and Leverburgh, where there is a ferry connection to Berneray. Previous experience shows that the minibus can fill up with passengers and luggage off that ferry, leaving intermediate passengers with a 2 to 3 hour wait for the next service. This is a critical situation for those with onward connections. Recent experience again shows a 16 seat minibus with no spare seats, apparently due to more passengers wishing to visit spectacular beaches on a fine sunny day.
A small minibus proved adequate for the W11 service from Tarbert to Rhenigadale, a tiny coastal community which had no road access until a 4 mile single track road was opened in 1990. The bus service provides school services during term time, but is request only during the school holidays, when it has to be booked by phone 2 hours in advance or on the previous day.
Back to Lewis, the Callanish stone circle remains a major tourist attraction, but scheduled buses cannot currently get closer than the main road due to ongoing works to rebuild the visitor centre.
The W2 bus service continues to Carloway, where there are W2a timetabled connections to the popular Garenin black house village
Lochs Motor Transport operate several services on the island, using a modern fleet of vehicles, including some double deckers which are used during school holidays on Cruise Ship transfers.
The Volvo EvoTor coaches which are assembled by MCV in Egypt, are becoming increasingly popular, including a brand new example on the W1 service to Ness. Its northern terminal loop is within walking distance of the impressive Butt of Lewis lighthouse, and just a short walk round the cliff tops from another spectacular beach at Europie.
The W5 route is run by the Council themselves. They have the majority of low floor easy access buses used on the island. The northern terminus at Tolsta gives an opportunity to walk the length of the big beach, Traigh Mhor, before catching the next service back from the other end the village.
There are no scheduled bus services on the island on Sundays, however the Calmac ferry does sail to Ullapool, where its journeys are met by Citylink coaches providing a direct connection to Inverness.
Neil Wallace
